Heritage, History & Her

We could be in the Vanguard:

Making Historical Dress Conference

Last month I attended the very first Making Historical Dress Conference. This explored how different ideas about making and researching historical costumes and crafts intersect. For this article, I’m using the term ‘dress history’ to refer to all these parts as a collective. It was amazing to see people I’ve followed on twitter as ‘real people’ and see their ideas come to life.

Positionality

One of the ideas taken up immediately by the other speakers was Hilary Davidson’s suggestion of stating positionality. Researchers should share their experiences and views to help make others aware of their bias. This helps identify more subjective arguments or why a different person might come up with different conclusions. Recognising ideas from other fields and cultures enables collaboration, without claiming ideas apply directly.
 
Work becomes intersectional and considers how the experiences of the researcher will affect the conclusions they make. This could be their own experiences or their perspective such as a Marxist approach. I’ve always been passionate about historical dress and wanted to learn all about it, but I’ve never managed to put the skills into practice. Hearing some speakers acknowledge that making items is something they can only do theoretically was also reassuring.

Reasons for Making

Hilary talked us through her pivotal essay on the different reasons for making historical dress and how this affects the type of investigation you should aim for. I’ve learned about Experimental Archaeology for my day-job and so this helped things click into place.

She brought up many themes that became threads throughout the conference. The humanities slight Dress history as feminine and ‘creative’. Obviously, these should not be negatives but society ignores this. These characteristics therefore prevent the field from outside recognition of its importance and this is why using scientific approaches and langue is needed to demand it’s due space.

 

I think one of her points is often misunderstood or overlooked. All history is using evidence available to prove a suggestion but it can always be replaced. She highlighted how this is true of all form of science – even famous scientists had their theories replaced and updated later on.

I think one of her points is often misunderstood or overlooked. All history uses the evidence available to prove a suggestion but it can always be replaced. She highlighted how this is true of all forms of science – even famous scientists had their theories replaced and updated later on.

Hilary Davidson is my number one recommendation for costumes a dress historian to follow on Twitter. See her deep-dive analysis of film costume and bonkers theories that still make perfect sense. Did you know Regency hair is a mullet? Or that the Modern, Early Modern and Medieval era can be told apart by boobs?

Sharing Knowledge

There’s a common conception that a large following suggests peak accuracy or being a leader in the field. One motivation for this website was needing a digital space to build a name for myself, my work and my ideas. But this assumption popular = ‘best’ doesn’t work in reality. Different levels of digital literacy, and more often time, means some of the best research isn’t shared. It never makes it out of someone’s brain, reaches academia, or makes it to those who can use it. This means we can’t learn from each other’s work. This is why connections between crafters and academics are so important to foster and grow.
 
This also brings in wider heritage ideas such as Generic Social Outcomes and Generic Learning Outcomes – the value to all the people involved, and the impact the project has, beyond adding to the knowledge of a niche topic in history.
 
The separation of Dress History from crafters, and re-enactment groups means that knowledge is not shared between groups. Even Re-enactment itself doesn’t act as a unit. From my experience, it tends not to be one ‘sector’ but two or more. Medieval battle-focused groups seem to have little overlap with groups with day trips to historic houses in 1800s attire. This is something I will be exploring more about in a future article.

Citizen Research

One way of sharing knowledge is by changing the way reenactors and members of the public are seen. We can include them directly into research and academia by casting them as ‘Citizen Researchers’. This term originated in citizen science. For example, the public help collect data for RSPB’s Big Garden Bird Watch by recording the different birds in their gardens.

I think this approach to dress history might have to be later down the line. It implies the public can help by contributing to an already existing data set. This would require the collation of what we already know into resources that can be shared first. Preventing reenactors, crafters and historians from spending time rediscovering what others already know would free up time for this.

This seems to be the dawning focus of this network – to collate the sharing of information between crafters and academics, and share this with others researching similar topics. A similar approach has been taken by public historians. The History Pin project aimed to create a map of the UK where local history groups added knowledge to location pins. The success of this project was the ability to attach their information to other locations to share between groups. For example, if research of a prominent businessman brought up links to another town’s train station, this information would be accessible to them too.
 
Yet, dress history is harder to visualise in this way. There is no clear map to start with but too many different ways information could be categorised. Gender is incredibly diverse, and fashion in many rural areas was ‘behind’ urban centres so a timeline approach would have problems too.

The Place for Crafters

Jane Macdonald gave the keynote speech of the afternoon. I didn’t recognise her name until she was introduced as half of Tudor Tailor. I’d had no idea there were two people behind this brand? Company? Series? Source of clever things? I’ve consistently seen them advised for accessibility for new reenactors and their accuracy.
 
Jane referred to her research on how reconstruction focuses on finding the intersection of pictorial (e.g. an illustration in a manuscript), documentary (e.g. a written letter referring to a dress) and artefactual (the tiny fragment that survived) sources. She explained how this missed out a key part – that to put these together you need to understand the craft itself to combine them. This is both practising the craft today and/or research of it in the past. Her talk showed the value of crafters to bring things to life and to see if the academic understanding works in reality.

Here we are in the Vanguard!

Jane Malcolm-Davies

Tudor Tailor

Types of Making

Jane also explored the different methods to making dress based on Wayland Barbour’s earlier theory:

Infographic Types of Making from Wayland Barbour* - 1 Replication. Making an exact duplicate of an original garment. E.g. to display instead of the fragile original 2. Reconstruction. Making educated Guesses to fill in the gaps with 'justifiable speculation'. E.g. to work out how parts fit toegether. 3. Recreation. Based on guesswork and speculation about what something should look like. E.g. film version of a stage costume.
*At the time of writing, the recording and bibliography of the conference haven't yet been released to fact check this.
This was really interesting as I’ve seen first-hand a lot of confusion on the existence of an in-between level between recreation and replication. My day job involves supporting volunteers trying to make 700s dresses – a period with little surviving artefacts. Presenting these options as a scale also helps solve confusion between decisions involved in each. Even replication involves the maker deciding whether they are recreating the garment when new or when added to a collection.
 
It was really interesting hearing people talk about this idea of ‘ageing’ newly made costumes to reflect it at a different stage in its life. They often built on techniques used in costume design for theatre and screen.

Jane also expressed the importance of the term ‘construct’ in ‘reconstruction’. She talked about how important it is to show the transparency of the fact it is an educated guess yet involves much subjective judgment. This completes the net of how all these ideas fit together – back to the idea Hilary brought up of how history is just increasingly educated guesses but that is more clear in fields like dress history.

Conclusion

There were many other really valuable talks as part of this conference. I found many new people to follow their discoveries so watch out for my ideas inspired by theirs in the future. I’m also working on articles on engagement and ways of illustrating techniques so watch out for them too!

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2 responses

  1. I really enjoyed what you have accomplished here. The outline is elegant, your written content is stylish, yet you seem to have acquired a bit of apprehension over what you aim to convey next. Undoubtedly, I will revisit more frequently, just as I have been doing nearly all the time in case you sustain this upswing.

    1. Hi Roxanne! Thanks so much for your comment – I’m glad you enjoyed my article! There were so many amazing things and ideas mentioned at the conference that no wonder I sounded apprehensive about what part to explore next – many decisions to make!

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